Rebuilding a cheap table saw part #8

Finally the rebuilding of that cheap table saw comes to it's completion. It took a few days, 120 Euro's for the saw and about 40 Euro's for the hdf and some bolts... a total of 160 Euro's for a table saw of which the saw blade, fence and miter slots are all aligned. A good adjustable and strong fence and a decent worktop. What more could you ask for.... 

The 3rd layer of the fence is glued and screwed on. 

The clamp block is glued together. 

The rod that was on the original fence from our first table saw was 70 centimeters long, it clamped at the back of the top. We had to cut it and tap new threads... 

The old handle in its new form.

The old "home made fence re-used. The little wheels are adjustable and make the fence move better....

The fence clamp mounted... 

And this is how the fence is when on the table... 

The bolt in the middle is to adjust the height of the clamping block. 

Lined up, and screwed to the base "T"

Still one thing tom do... making the insert plate.

But it looks like a real table saw....


The World of Woodworking #3

In The World of Woodworking we will share these beautiful images from artists all over the world. A new month... so 3 new portrait's of special woodworkers from the pre- sticker sharing,pink painting, woodtalk hangouts and CNC era....

Brian Beasley is a retired high school woodwork teacher from Junee. In this video he sings and makes a table/stool, though not at the same time. Brian believes that using older woodwork techniques, relying on physical strength and re-purposed wood is more emotionally satisfying that using machinery to produce furniture.

This short film is a portrait of a 92 year old carpenter. Mr. Kapek, that's his name, also built all his tools himself. Besides, he is a lovely person and a smile rarely comes off his face.

Woodwork and two Exercises...... a bit out of the box... but still woodworking!


Rebuilding a cheap table saw part #7

Because the grey hdf makes so much fine dust, which covers the whole workshop, no matter how close you keep the vacuum-cleaner, I decided to router out the miter slots first. I had the options of 6, 8, 12 or 22 millimeters, if I wanted to do the slots in one go. So, the slots are 12 mm. That should be enough for hardwood runners I guess. I did both table saws, after 18 months I should be able to start using the completely homemade table saw that's in the other side of the table for cross-cuts.

The new top is about 12 mm higher than the existing table, the slots are 7 millimeter deep so when a sled is used it will run over the working table. 

We managed to get as deep as 4 millimeters recess for the insert plates. 

After looking carefully at the options for a fence, the decision was made to stay with the T-style fence, but instead of making some kind of C-clamp to tighten it to the bench, we decided to convert the old fence from the first crappy McKenzie table we had. It turns out that the handle works more or less as a C-clamp, although on the old table it was clamping at the back. So we will have to shorten the threaded rod, turn the handle up side down and make a new clamp block.

The old handle from our former disappointing table saw

The shape of the old fence clamp routed out the base of the new T-fence

Mounted to the base. 

And it will be used upside down.

The second layer glued on the base. The T-fence clamping system will be made out of 3 layers of the hdf. We are going to mount the old fence we made from plywood, just because it's straight and we're happy with it.


Rebuilding a cheap table saw part #6

After the saw blade was finally in line with the top, we decided to make the base first, before routing out the miter slots and making the fence. As we are on a zero budget is was all about using the materials that are on hand. So, we used 2 off cuts of pine and the base material that came with the saw. We used the extension tops as supports, the steel profiles were combined and screwed together in a "creative" way. The base, which is a part of our existing worktable, turned out well.

The extension tops that came out the box were used as a part of the base. The (black painted) pine off cut pieces are an extra support, mounted right on top of the wheels of our worktable.

The steel profiles that came with the saw were modified and used to make 2 legs and some bracing supports. Next thing is to make a box (under the saw) for the sawdust.

The top is 1 cm higher than the work table. We don't have to put the miter-slots in the worktable itself and our problem of sometimes hitting some parts of the other table saw (that's in the worktable for cross-cuts)

The last problem to solve will be the zero insert plate...


Rebuilding a cheap table saw part #5

It took a whole day to adjust the alignment of the saw blade. It just didn't work with the available adjusters that are on the machine itself. A big part of that problem is the very thin sheet-metal the housing is made off. It bends with every nut you tighten. In the end I made an extra "micro" adjusting system and added it to the "leveling" bar that runs across the saw blade. It did cost me a few extra millimeters in height, but who cares, better a good alignment than getting frustrated every time you use it.

Chiseled out some more space for the adjustment bar, although every thing was fitting nicely after that, it turned out not to be very accurately adjustable.

So I came up with an extra way of guiding the bar. This seems to do the job. However it make the saw blade rise 3 millimeter less, so now we only have lust over 60 mm instead of the original 68 mm 

And see here... a perfect alignment. finally! 

The old saw needed a channel at the back to tighten the fence. 

The new fence is going to be made after an example of Mathias Wandel (end some others on Youtube) so the whole side of the worktable can be removed. 

Starting to look like a real table saw after all... 

Next problems to be solved are the hinges that I want to incorporate to the top. I want it to be able to lift when adjustments need to be done. We also have to come up with a solution for the zero clearence plate...I can only router out 2 millimeter... so what material would be strong enough... I'll sleep on it.


Rebuilding a cheap table saw part #4

It didn't even take 2 Euro's to get 20 new M6x30 bolts. All parts were ready to be assembled and all went well until we came to the nuts underneath the lifting/tilting bracket. It took a few hours, all kinds of tools, tape, and a few #**%+$$'s if you know what I mean, but finally I managed to get it all sorted out, I thought.

I didn't know at the time why there were nuts on one side of the connection bolts for the tilting/lifting bracket. After I put it on all became clear.

The last hole I had to drill was the one that lines up the saw blade... I didn't do it exactly right as I would find out later. 

It wouldn't be until I fitted everything in, that I realized I didn't router out enough for the adjusting clip (above on the picture) it should be able to move a bit (a millimeter) to the right.... 

Photo taken from the other side. As you can see, there's room in the clip to move a bit back.... if I only had routed out a few millimeter more... 

The result of that missing millimeter... 

Getting the blade 90 degrees vertical wasn't that much work. There's a special bolt in the tilting bracket that is adjustable. 

Instead of 68 millimeter, the height of the blade is now 63, the loss for making a better top. I certainly can live with that.

Question now is; do I take the whole thing apart again to router out that 1 millimeter, or am I just going to try it with a chisel....(at place that's hard to reach). I will sleep om it....


Rebuilding a cheap table saw part #3

The 2 sheets of hdf are glued and screwed together. There's an extra strip of 4 cm. under the front for the t-style fence (inspired by Mathias Wandel) with some alterations probably.

After the sheets were glued and screwed together I realized that I will need to make a firm frame. This top becomes heavy! 

The original top "on top" of the other... . 

The difference between the old and the new... 

Kind of looks smooth and smart doesn't it...

and so an other problem needs a solution..

The original "zero clearance" insert is just a few milliliters from one of the bolts that holds the motor. 

After putting the housing of the saw on the top... I realized I could not reach the bolts that are hanging the tilting / lifting mechanism to the top, so yes, I had to take it apart again.

After putting the holding plates in like on the original it turned out that the blots are to short due to the 5 millimeter extra thickness. We are going to have to buy 5 new ones, well when that turns out to be all, we'll be happy!


Rebuilding a cheap table saw part #2

Now that was much more routing time that I thought. Because of the 2 sheets of HDF, I had to transfer the first layout to the second, only without some of the "out-cuts" trying to keep as much thickness as possible.

Keeping as much material as possible...
Luckily this cheap saw is adjustable in all directions, all nuts and bolts...
Only problem so far is the knife.. But I guess I will adjust that (make it smaller) because making the cut-out to change the saw blade bigger means less strength. 

And now it's all about little adjustments to get the new top on to this 1 millimeter thick "steel"..
Maybe that's something to make a bit stronger to..
Routing and grey HDF... not a good combination if you want to keep your workshop clean...